French Alps

4 Day Itinerary for the French Alps: Chamonix & Annecy Highlights

This is the itinerary I give to first-timers who want big views and charming towns without a rental car. I last did a variation of this in June 2025 with a couple of friends from New York who thought they “weren’t mountain people.” They left looking up real estate listings in Chamonix.

Day 1 – Arrival in Geneva, Transfer to Chamonix, First Glimpse of Mont Blanc

Land in Geneva and hop on a shared shuttle or direct bus to Chamonix (about 1 hr 15). I like arriving late morning, dropping bags at a central guesthouse, and heading straight to the river for that first true view of Mont Blanc glowing above town.

Stroll the pedestrian center, grab a coffee and a slice of blueberry tart at a pâtisserie, and ride the Brévent cable car in the afternoon if the weather is clear – it gives the classic postcard view across to the whole Mont Blanc chain, without the more crowded vibe of Aiguille du Midi.

Evening: Fondue or raclette at a traditional spot in town; a gentle walk along the Arve River as the peaks darken. This is when the jetlagged awe really hits.

Day 2 – Aiguille du Midi & Easy Valley Hike

Book the Aiguille du Midi cable car in advance for early morning. I still get goosebumps every time the doors open at 3,842 m and the air hits your lungs. Walk the various viewing platforms, step inside the “Step into the Void” glass box if you dare, and linger over the ridgelines running off to Italy and Switzerland.

In the afternoon, come back down to oxygen and stretch your legs on the gentle riverside path to Les Bois or a forested loop around the base of the valley. Families and non-hikers love this; it feels alpine without any real exertion.

Day 3 – Train to Montenvers & Mer de Glace, Transfer to Annecy

Take the historic Montenvers cog railway up to the Mer de Glace. I remember riding this in early autumn 2024, watching the glacier’s exposed grey ice and thinking about all the old photographs in the station café that show how fast it has shrunk. Walk the steps down to the ice grotto if conditions allow, then loop one of the balcony trails above.

In the afternoon, grab your bags and catch a direct bus or train/bus combo to Annecy (around 2.5 hours). Check into an old-town hotel or lakeside apartment and head straight out to watch the sun drop behind the Semnoz ridge, painting the lake gold.

Day 4 – Lake Annecy & Old Town, Departure

Spend your last morning swimming or paddling on Lac d’Annecy (in summer) or walking part of the lakeside path (in any season). The water is shockingly clear – every time I slip in at the grassy plage near Sévrier I remember why people call this “Europe’s cleanest lake.”

Explore the old town: pastel houses, flower-lined canals, and market streets. Have one last tartiflette or a lighter lake-fish dish before heading back to Geneva (about 45 minutes by direct bus) for an evening flight.

5 Day Itinerary for French Alps: Mont Blanc & Vanoise Taster

For people who want a bit more wilderness, I nudge them south into the Vanoise National Park after Chamonix.

• Day 1–2: As in the 4-day itinerary, based in Chamonix (Aiguille du Midi + easy valley hiking).
• Day 3: Transfer by train to Bourg-Saint-Maurice, then on to Les Arcs or a village near Vanoise like Pralognan-la-Vanoise. Evening stroll and hearty dinner.
• Day 4: Full day hiking in Vanoise – glaciers overhead, marmots whistling from the rocks. I still remember a July day hiking above Pralognan when we counted 15 ibex in a single morning.
• Day 5: Lazy morning, then train back down the Tarentaise valley to Chambéry or Lyon for departure.

6 Day Itinerary for French Alps: Lakes, Villages & Gentle Peaks

This is my go-to for families or couples in summer who want variety without intense logistics:

• Days 1–2: Annecy – Lakeside cycling, old town, gentle hike up to La Tournette or a sunset drive to Col de la Forclaz for paragliders and views.
• Days 3–4: La Clusaz or Megève – Stay in a chalet village, mix mountain walks with cheese farm visits and spa time.
• Days 5–6: Chamonix – Finish with big mountain drama: Aiguille du Midi, Brévent, or the Grand Balcon Nord hike.

7 Day Itinerary for French Alps: Iconic North to Wilder South

If you have a full week, you can taste both the glossy, iconic north and the rugged, sun-drenched south. I last did this in September 2023 with slow trains and one rental car segment, and it remains one of my favorite Alps weeks.

• Days 1–2: Chamonix – Aiguille du Midi, Montenvers, valley hike.
• Days 3–4: Annecy – Lake, old town, nearby hikes.
• Day 5: Transfer via Chambéry / Grenoble to Briançon – Scenic rail journey.
• Days 6–7: Briançon & Serre Chevalier / Écrins – High-sun hiking, hot springs in Monetier-les-Bains, or summer lift-accessed walks.

Below, I’ll dig deeply into 15 of the main peaks, valleys, passes, and villages, weaving in how they plug into these itineraries.

1. Mont Blanc & the Chamonix Valley

Altitude: 4,808 m (Mont Blanc summit) • Best bases: Chamonix, Les Houches, Argentière • Known for: Big-mountain skiing, alpinism, glaciers, bucket-list cable cars.

Mont Blanc is the organizing deity of the region – a white dome that decides the weather, the mood, even the color of the light in the valley. My relationship with Chamonix has evolved: in my 20s it was all about adrenaline and late-night bars; now I come for the morning light on the Dru and quiet espresso at 8 a.m. when the guides are loading gear into vans.

What to do:

• Aiguille du Midi cable car – The quintessential high-alpine experience. Dress very warm even in July; it’s often below freezing at the top with fierce wind.
• Montenvers & Mer de Glace – Historic cog railway to a receding glacier. The interpretive center has become more focused on climate in recent years; it’s sobering and worthwhile.
• Grand Balcon Nord & Sud hikes – Balcony trails that contour high above the valley with relatively modest effort for huge views. I love the Balcon Nord from Plan de l’Aiguille to Montenvers in late September when the crowds thin.
• Ski the Vallée Blanche – A legendary off-piste glacial descent from Aiguille du Midi into the valley. Only with a qualified guide; crevasses are no joke.

When to go: December–March for skiing (February is busiest); June–September for hiking, with July and early August best for wildflowers. Shoulder seasons (May, October–November) are quieter but many lifts and refuges close.

Personal tip: Base in Les Praz or Les Bois in summer if you want a calmer feel than central Chamonix. The little train and buses connect easily, and you can hear the river at night instead of nightclub bass.

2. Aiguille du Midi

Altitude: 3,842 m • Access: Direct cable car from Chamonix center • Known for: Panoramic views, access to high alpinism routes, “Step into the Void” glass box.

The first time I went up Aiguille du Midi, I didn’t speak for about twenty minutes. The top station feels like a villain’s lair from a 1970s Bond film – walkways bolted to vertical rock, tunnels of ice-cold air, distant rope teams ant-like on ridges.

Altitude & acclimatization: At nearly 3,900 m, you’ll feel it. Move slowly, drink water, and avoid running up stairs for that perfect photo. I once watched a very fit guy from London go pale and dizzy within minutes because he’d skipped breakfast and sprinted around.

Best season: Clear days year-round, but winter and early spring can offer the sharpest visibility. In summer, book ahead – 2026 is expected to be another high-demand season, especially around weekends.

Don’t miss: The outdoor terraces facing the Mont Blanc du Tacul and the Italian side. And, if you’re not afraid of heights, line up for the glass box – it’s touristy, yes, but also surreal.

3. Chamonix Town & Valley Villages

Altitude: 1,035 m (Chamonix center) • Villages: Les Houches, Les Praz, Les Bois, Argentière • Best for: Mixed-ability groups, nightlife, gear shopping, access to multiple mountain areas.

Chamonix town is a magnet – sometimes too much of one. In mid-winter and mid-summer it can feel like half of Europe and a good chunk of South America is here at once, all jangling ski boots and clicking trekking poles. But that energy is part of the charm, especially if you like to people-watch from café terraces.

Where to stay:

• Central Chamonix – Best without a car; steps from lifts, shops, and restaurants. Noisy in high season.
• Les Houches – Lower key, more residential; great for families and those on a tighter budget. Good base for driving into Italy via the tunnel.
• Argentière – Closer to Grands Montets and serious off-piste terrain. More “core mountain” crowd.

Food: Try a croûte savoyarde (cheese-drenched bread baked in a dish with white wine and lardons) after a long day in cold weather. I still dream about one I had in a small bistro near the church square on a blizzardy January evening in 2022.

4. Annecy & Lac d’Annecy

Altitude: 448 m (lake level) • Known for: Lakeside living, canals, cycling, gentle hikes, food culture • Best for: Families, couples, non-skiers, shoulder-season trips.

Annecy is the place I go when I want the Alps without always being in them. In 2024 I spent a blissful two weeks here working from a tiny apartment above a bakery, swimming in the lake every morning before settling down with my laptop.

Things to do:

• Cycle the lake – A greenway runs along much of the western shore; rent bikes and cruise through Sévrier, Saint-Jorioz, and Duingt.
• Swim at the plages – Grassy lakeside parks with lifeguards in summer; my favorites are in Sévrier and Saint-Jorioz.
• Explore the old town – Canals, arcades, and the much-photographed Palais de l’Isle. Tourist-heavy in midsummer, but early mornings remain magically quiet.
• Hike La Tournette or Semnoz – La Tournette is a full-day demanding hike with chain sections near the top; Semnoz offers shorter loops and big views with car access.

Food: Annecy punches above its weight: from Michelin-starred spots to humble crêperies. Try filets de perche (lake perch) with lemon butter, and finish with gâteau de Savoie, a light sponge cake that always feels better than it sounds.

5. Megève & the Mont Blanc “Balcony”

Altitude: 1,100 m (village) • Known for: Chic yet traditional village, horse-drawn sleighs, gentle ski slopes, views of Mont Blanc.

Megève is what happens when a farming village becomes a ski resort without losing its soul. The first time I arrived on a snowy December evening, the church square lit up, the smell of roasted chestnuts in the air, I half expected to bump into someone from a 1960s ski film.

Best for: Romantic winter weekends, families who prefer long, scenic blue runs over extreme terrain, travelers who like to mix spas and shopping with time on the mountain.

Summer: Megève is underrated in summer – rolling pastures, accessible hikes, and less crowding than Chamonix. I once spent a hot August afternoon walking between small farm restaurants that serve beignets de pomme de terre (Savoyard potato fritters) with salad and charcuterie: simple, perfect.

6. La Clusaz & Aravis Range

Altitude: 1,040 m (village) • Known for: Cheese culture, freeride skiing, relaxed village vibe • Best base for: Families, mid-budget skiers, summer pasture walks.

If you love cheese, La Clusaz is non-negotiable. This is Reblochon country – the heartland of tartiflette. I stayed with a local cheesemaker family here for a story in 2021, waking at 5 a.m. to watch them milk cows while the sky slowly pinked behind the Aravis.

Activities:

• Winter: Varied skiing with some excellent off-piste when conditions allow; more affordable than the huge interconnected mega-resorts.
• Summer: Easy walks from lift tops, farm visits to buy cheese directly from producers, and via ferrata routes for adventurous teens and adults.

Tip: Base here if Annecy is too expensive or busy; it’s about 40 minutes’ drive, making it a good two-center stay.

7. Les Trois Vallées (Courchevel, Méribel, Val Thorens & Co.)

Altitude: 600–3,230 m (Val Thorens) • Known for: World’s largest linked ski area, extensive groomers, glitzy Courchevel scene.

The Three Valleys are where you go when you want sheer volume of skiing. On a clear January week in 2020, I skied from Courchevel to Val Thorens and back in a day, clocking 60+ km without repeating a run. It’s that kind of place.

Bases & character:

• Courchevel 1850 – Luxury hotels, designer boutiques, heli-ski vibe (though heli-skiing itself is limited by French law).
• Méribel – Central location, classic chalet architecture, great for mixed groups.
• Val Thorens – The highest; best for snow reliability early and late season, more functional architecture but improving.

Summer: Increasingly marketed for mountain biking, hiking, and trail running; still quieter than winter. Several lifts operate, giving access to high alpine lakes and ridges.

2026–2027 note: Expect continued focus on low-carbon initiatives: more electric shuttle buses, lift station upgrades, and extended summer opening dates.

8. Vanoise National Park & Tarentaise Valleys

Altitude: 1,000–3,856 m (Grande Casse) • Known for: Protected wilderness, glaciers, wildlife (ibex, chamois, marmots).

Vanoise is where I go when I want to feel small in the best way. In July 2023, I hiked a three-day loop from Pralognan-la-Vanoise, staying in refuges each night, and saw more ibex than people on some stretches.

Access: Base in Pralognan, Termignon, or Peisey-Nancroix, or approach from ski areas like Tignes in summer. Public transport can get you to the valley towns; a car is useful but not strictly necessary if you pick one base.

Best for: Hikers from intermediate to expert, families wanting to introduce kids to hut-to-hut hiking (short stages possible), photographers chasing golden-hour light on glaciers.

9. Écrins National Park & La Grave

Altitude: 700–4,102 m (Barre des Écrins) • Known for: Wild, rugged peaks, fewer lifts, more authenticity.

The Écrins feel like the Alps turned up one notch wilder. Base in La Grave or Bourg-d’Oisans, or further east in Briançon. I spent a scorching August 2022 week here, hiking high above La Grave with views straight to the mighty La Meije and cooling off in glacial streams.

La Grave: Famous among expert skiers for its unpisted glacier terrain accessed by a single old-school gondola. In summer, that gondola is a shortcut to high hiking and climbing terrain. This is not a resort for casual intermediates in winter; in summer, almost anyone can enjoy the views with sensible route choices.

10. Briançon & Serre Chevalier

Altitude: 1,326 m (Briançon) • Known for: UNESCO-listed fortifications, 300 days of sun, skiing at Serre Chevalier, gateway to Écrins.

Briançon is where the Alps start to feel southern: brighter light, drier air, and olive trees creeping into view. The old fortified town is a maze of steep cobbled lanes and stone houses, best explored in the late afternoon when the stones hold the day’s warmth.

Serre Chevalier strings together several villages – Monêtier-les-Bains, Villeneuve, Chantemerle, Briançon – along a long valley. In winter, the tree skiing is superb on storm days; in summer, lifts give access to high meadows and ridges.

Don’t miss: The hot springs at Monêtier-les-Bains. I soaked here one chilly September night, watching stars prick out above the dark ridge line, and it remains one of my favorite “après-hike” experiences.

11. Grenoble, Chartreuse & Vercors Prealps

Altitude: 200–2,341 m • Known for: Lively university city, limestone cliffs, WWII resistance history, family hiking.

Grenoble is technically ringed by three massifs – Chartreuse, Vercors, Belledonne – and while not “high Alps” in the Mont Blanc sense, they’re perfect for those who want culture plus moderate hiking or cycling.

I’ve used Grenoble as a base for rail-based trips when I don’t want to rent a car. In 2024 I spent a week working here, hopping on local buses to trailheads in the Chartreuse, then coming back to wine bars in the city each night.

12. Tarentaise Villages: Bourg-Saint-Maurice, Sainte-Foy & Surrounds

Altitude: 800–1,600 m • Known for: Authentic villages between mega-resorts, road cycling, gateway to passes like Col de l’Iseran.

Most skiers blast through Bourg-Saint-Maurice on the train and head straight up to Les Arcs or La Plagne. I’d gently suggest slowing down. Sainte-Foy-Tarentaise and neighboring hamlets are some of the prettiest, most traditional settlements in the region, with larch-shingled roofs and old stone barns.

These villages make superb, quieter summer bases: easy drives to Vanoise, Iseran Pass, Tignes, and beyond, without the resort feel.

13. Col de l’Iseran

Altitude: 2,764 m • Known for: One of Europe’s highest paved passes, road cycling, dramatic views.

I first drove the Col de l’Iseran on a hazy August afternoon, the car packed with hiking gear and a bag of apricots from a valley market. The road climbs above Val d’Isère, winding through stark, almost lunar terrain before dropping towards Bonneval-sur-Arc, one of France’s most beautiful stone villages.

Seasonality: Usually open late June to early October, depending on snow. In early summer, roadside snowbanks can still be several meters high; in late September, the larches begin to glow gold.

Best for: Cyclists (this is an iconic climb), motorbikers, scenic drivers, photographers. On clear days you can see a mosaic of glaciers on the surrounding peaks.

14. Col de la Forclaz (Annecy Balcony Pass)

Altitude: 1,157 m • Known for: Lake Annecy views, paragliding launch, sunset drives.

Col de la Forclaz (the Annecy one – there are others) is my go-to “wow” spot for visitors. A short, steep drive from the lakeshore, it opens to a balcony above the turquoise water, with paragliders launching from the grassy slope in a constant kaleidoscope.

I like to come up here with a picnic in late afternoon; by 7–8 p.m. in summer, the crowds thin, the light softens, and you can hear the whoosh of parachutes and the cowbells from the opposite shore.

15. Samoëns & the Giffre Valley

Altitude: 700–1,600 m • Known for: Authentic stone village, family skiing (Grand Massif), summer river activities, proximity to Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval.

Samoëns is where I send families who want authentic village charm without Chamonix prices. The main square has a huge lime tree, planted in 1790, under which locals linger with coffees and kids in tow. It still feels like a real place where people live year-round.

Summer highlight: The Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, a dramatic amphitheater of cliffs and waterfalls at the end of the valley. I hiked here on a drizzly June day once; the rain amplified the waterfalls and turned the whole cirque into a living soundscape.